About Me

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Gurgaon, Haryana, India
I look at life with detachment and distance, like a window shopper. Not only I study the window but also my own reflections in it.
Showing posts with label History And Society. Show all posts
Showing posts with label History And Society. Show all posts

Railway Genes

Saturday, July 25, 2009 1 comments


A Hereditary Trap
Indian society had and still has insidious stratification based on caste groups. Originally these caste groups started out as work-guilds. A group of carpenters - for example interacted and lived together for professional reasons. Opportunities and mobility being restricted, generations after generations took up jobs of their ancestors. Thus the work-guilds crystallized into water-tight caste groups. A child was condemned (or blessed - in the case of upper castes) to follow family calling. Even modern day professions had their own entrapment for children. I, even in 20th century was destined to become a Railwayman - almost as a karma of birth in a Railway Family....

My grand-father in early 20th century was a clerk in a station in Metre Gauge section of what is now called North-eastern Railway. It’s not known whether my great grand father was also in Railway - it would be a fair guess that he too must have been a Railwayman. Jobs in Railways at that time used to be gifted to children of loyal Railwaymen. It was difficult for outsider to enter the profession - unless the person was highly qualified. Thus our family tree is entwined with Railways for over a century, not much later than the inception of Railway in India in mid 19th century. Nobody from the family worked outside Railway (except my father). Nobody married outside a Railway Family (except me). Thus all my relatives - uncles and cousins were Guards, Drivers, Station Masters or Union Leaders. My father escaped the entrapment into Railway, due to untimely death of my grand-father in mid 1920s.He was sent to work in Haridwar Station as a replacement to the locals, who had succumbed to Cholera epidemic. My grand-father also fell to cholera within a month. Although this meant pauperization of the family, my father ultimately did much better than he would have done in Railway. He escaped the Karma of Railway-birth (not berth).
I remember most of my holidays in childhood were spent with Railway Relatives. We played in Railway Yards. We sneaked into forbidden areas like Station Master's room or Signalling Huts. We also played in equipment storage areas - where we played about with signal levers and trolleys etc. Many times we were chased away by the chowkidars. Informally we learnt a lot about Railway operations during playing. In the evening my uncles used to clarify any doubts we had, during our informal coaching in Railway. The discussions over dinner were mostly about Railways. This knowledge and experience fleshed out the bland training I received later during induction into Railway. The Railway entered my Genes by osmosis.
Although I passed out among top quartile of class from IIT-Delhi and most of my class-mates managed to get a career in USA, yet I got trapped to join Railway, due to family persuasions. Firstly, I was persuaded to just enter the competitive Exams For Railway (After all even if you get selected, you can always back-off). Later having succeeded - a whole congregation of relatives emotionally blackmailed me to join. Railway-birth leads to a berth in Railway.
I spent over 37 years in Railways and rose to become CEO of a Zonal Railway.
But it was galling that I could not rise further, because people with no roots in Railway, questioned the depth of my groundings in Railway Operations. Ultimately I resigned.
None of my children joined Railway despite my prodding and escaped the hereditary profession. They were able to break the Railway voodoo. I wish I could have too!!

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Delhi: Adventures in a Megacity

Saturday, April 25, 2009 0 comments


One post from this blog was quoted in BBC correspondent Sam Miller's book on walking tours of Delhi named above. I was under an assumption that quoting from a blog would need prior permission or intimation at least from/to the blog-owner. I not only don't mind that but rather feel elated. Thank you Sam! One of my class-mate from school (out of touch since 43 years) noticed it first and followed the footnote mentioning my blog and contacted me. It was a pleasant surprise?
The post quoted is a passing reference to history of my school's building "Ludlow Castle".

The author makes well-planned walking trips in Delhi, covering all the hidden nooks, corners and oddities. He has a questioning and overly inquisitive mind, which remains unfazed by bizarre situations. During his perambulations, many circumstances tested his mental poise, but that was equally matched by his recessionary physical equilibrium. He had propensity to suddenly become horizontal during his vertical ambulations. He measured the floor length of a Metro coach by sprawling over it, he paralleled the act of a "Sashtang Pranam" devotee; he also measured the depth of a manhole by falling into it(Vertically). He was also floored by assorted pigs and pie-dogs. No wonder he discovers Delhi, like nobody has done it before, with this down to earth, ear to the ground approach.
He has a knack of turning the turd over to look at the hot and steaming universe underneath, peopled by voice-less power-less strata. As a child, I enjoyed doing that to real cow-dung with a twig. What disturbs you more is his post-mortem doctor's non-judgemental factual observations. Really pithy are his social comments on the abject poverty and shadowy world of people left behind by India Shining. Delhi is like a shiny over-polished apple which has worms inside. Cut it open at your own peril!! But Sam has gone ahead and done it, and has left it for all to see.
No, No, It's not a dark look at Delhi only a 'Gestalt' view.

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Rajasthan, Jaipur, Jaisalmer & Jodhpur

Saturday, September 27, 2008 0 comments

A Royal Trip On Palace On Wheels

Rajasthan in India has a Royal and Warrior heritage. Its worth a leisurely tour. Its a place to first hand experience the dusty desert, medieval history, Royal Palaces, complexly structured society - and of course cows on the road.
But Palace on Wheel is a Train of Royal Coaches for a whirlwind conducted group tour in seven days. It does leave you breathless and disoriented - but is best for people who cannot afford to stand and stare.


The tour covers Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Sawai Madhopur, Chittorgarh, Udaipur, Bharatpur besides Agra & Delhi on way.It takes you to Forts, Palaces, Havelis, Tiger Reserves & Bird Sanctuaries.
I took the tour starting 17th Sep. You get to ride an elephant and then a camel on the sand dunes of desert. There is lots of shopping opportunities - as Rajasthan has also a tradition in handicrafts, embroidery, leather goods, toys and sculpturing.

I indulged in my hobby of photography and stitching the landscapes. Here are some of the stitchings.

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Vaishali - The First Democracy of The World

Saturday, August 16, 2008 0 comments

(<-A modern Japanese Pagoda on the banks of Coronation Tank of Vaishali)
On my recent visit to the archaeological remains of the ancient city of Vaishali, I tried to feel how it must hae been to live in those times. Its a sobering experience and makes you respect people who lived then.
Vaishali, a city in North Bihar, India is known to have existed since at least 6th century B.C. It was very large, very populous and rich. It was also the capital of the state of Vaishali. The legend has it that one of the earlier king, "Nabhaga" abdicated the throne due to an accusation about Human Rights violation and is believed to have declared: "I am now a free tiller of the soil, king over my acre". The city then declared itself a democratic Republic - the first democracy of the world - much earlier than the ones in Greece.

(<-The earliest of Ashokan Lion pillars. Unlike later ones it has no religious edict engraved on it. On right is an irreverent look at the butt of the lion. The lion's facial expression is pathetic not majestic or ferocious - where have you strung me up?)
The place is also linked with the lives of Mahatma Buddha and Mahavira (the 24th incarnation of Jain Religion). Buddha spent most of his last years here. During this time, the place was famous for its courtesan - Amrapali. She is the focus of many legends and stories of that time for her beauty and wealth. Modern day Hindi Novel - "Vaishali Ki Nagar Vadhu" (Vaishali's City Bride) is also about her. Buddha's influence (or is it vice-versa) converted her to a female-monk, for which Buddha broke his rule of allowing only men-folk as monks. This change almost broke the Buddhist community into two warring sides (shades of "Helen of Troy").
There are now many archaeological remains in the area. Most of these show layers of construction in various periods of the history - from 6th century B.C. till 7th century AD.

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Why No Noble For Mahatma

Saturday, October 08, 2005 2 comments

Isn't it a surprising thing, that Mr. Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi (Mahatma Gandhi for most of us) never received a Nobel Peace Prize.

The Maha(The great)-Atman(Soul) developed, preached and practiced non-violence as a potent weapon against the British Colonists.  And this non-violent struggle was mainly responsible for India winning the freedom (its a lie that it was granted to us). His philosophy influenced other freedom movement leaders like Nelson Mandela; African-American rights leaders etc.
In World's fight against Terrorism, Mahatma Gandhi's non-violence can be potent answers.   Those who use terrorism as a weapon could realise that much more can be gained for their causes through Mahatma's methods than by violence.
We should place him in the category of Mahatma Budha.  We should be utterly grateful that Mahatma Gandhi didn't leave us his dogma in form of a religion or a family clan - which he was in position to do so.  His followers would have converted his sound philosophy into an inane dogma and pushed it down the throat of others - in a non non-violent way.  That is what fanatical followers of religions do to the noble principles of their religions.
Then why didn't he receive Nobel Prize? It is learnt that he was nominated for the award in 1937,1938, 1939 1and 1948.  But some internal petty minded referees chose to stress on some of his eccentricities rather than to his greatness.
Nobel Prize is poorer for this faulty judgement.

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I Bow My Head To The Silent Dead

Tuesday, April 19, 2005 3 comments

My job has taken me to every part of India. I am fascinated by British cemeteries. The epitaphs on the graves,
are sometimes terse/ sometimes in verse,
but have solemnity/ and enough gravity,
I bow my head/ to the silent dead!

These show a pathetic side of the story. How many British mothers/wives lost their sons/husbands, in a land thousands of miles over oceans - in inhospitable weather, hated and unloved by locals - among whom they died. More white-men died due to disease - dysentery, cholera, malaria and heat-stroke than fighting. How many men wasted their lives away from families. In terms of human price paid, it was colossus. If employed in Industry - these very men would have given Britain well - earned honest wealth - much more than the illgotten wealth through plunder and undisguised Robbery of a defenceless people. And imagine the full life these men would have lived among their families.
My school was in an erstwhile castle (Ludlow Castle)of the British, in Delhi. It bore the brunt of attack from the natives, during the first independence war of 1857. My favourite perch, for eating my lunch, was a memorial over a solitary grave in our football field. Whenever they dug grounds in school for construction, human bones still turnedup in 1950s.
Oppressions is a double edged sword. It cuts both the oppressors and the oppressed. In terms of human lives the oppressors suffers as much as those they oppress. Britain's colonisation of India and other nations also was a similar story.
India was kept enslaved as a colony for over two hundred years - really a long time. From a Modern point of view, it appears uncivilised and downright barbaric, to treat another nation and its people like this. It was purely for commercial reasons - howsoever disguised, behind high-sounding cliches of whiteman's burden.
But if I keep aside my negative feelings, and look with compassion, at the British people who ruled in India. They unwittingly suffered a lot.
Who suffered more the oppressor, or the oppressed? Clearly the oppressed suffered much more. But Britishers didn't go Scot-free.
Do I fulfill a psychological need by wandering through these cemeteries? Is it a purging of congealed disgust against the British Rule - a sort of gotcha?

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